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Tradesperson kneeling to set up a Grettz green laser level on a tripod in front of a timber fence and blockwork under a blue sky Tradesperson kneeling to set up a Grettz green laser level on a tripod in front of a timber fence and blockwork under a blue sky

Best Laser Level for Bricklaying and Blockwork

Bricklaying has relied on the humble stringline for centuries, and it isn't going anywhere. But a laser level earns its place on the bricklayer's kit list for the jobs a line can't do well — setting out, transferring datums, checking gauge, and running long, dead-level references. Here's how the two work together and which laser suits blockwork best.

Stringline vs laser: use both

For the actual bed joint, a taut builder's stringline pinned to the corners is still the fastest guide for laying to line. Our 8-braid stringline holds tension without the sag that throws a course out. Where the laser wins is everything around the line — establishing corner heights, checking that profiles are level with each other, and setting a consistent gauge up the wall.

Setting out and transferring levels

A rotary laser lets one person set every corner profile to the same height in minutes. Stand a staff at each profile, read the beam, and mark to the same figure. For this kind of outdoor levelling a red-beam rotary like the Grettz G60 is ideal, especially with a receiver for bright conditions.

Checking gauge and plumb

A multi-line green laser projects bright vertical and horizontal lines that make it easy to check perpends line up and reveals run true. Indoors, or on a shaded elevation, a green-beam laser such as the G4D gives you a clear vertical reference for door and window openings and returns.

Don't forget the digital level

For quick spot checks — is this padstone level, is this cill true — a digital spirit level reads the exact angle to a tenth of a degree, which is handy for setting falls on sills and copings.

Our recommendation for bricklayers

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